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Tripartite Meeting on Promoting Fair Globalization
in Textiles and Clothing in a Post-MFA Environment

Geneva, 24-26 October 2005

Since 1 January 2005, with the termination of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) and the phase-out of the Multifibre Agreement (MFA), the textiles and clothing (TC) sector is experiencing a global revolution. After 40 years of quota restrictions, the TC sector has been integrated into the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade. This trade liberalization is creating huge uncertainty among producing countries, workers and enterprises worldwide.

Dealing in a socially responsible way with these new circumstances, where international competition will be at its peak, requires the elaboration and implementation of integrated strategies from global to local level, which involve the national governments and social partners concerned. The ILO is in a key position to examine, discuss and facilitate the process in order to ensure a fair globalization in the TC sector.

The ILO therefore decided to convene a three-day tripartite meeting to consider the impact of the end of the MFA. The purpose of the meeting was to review the immediate social and economic impact of the end of the MFA and the strategies that have been put in place or are being developed, including the role of social dialogue in the process, with a view to facilitating the elaboration of appropriate integrated strategies for promoting fair globalization in the TC sector worldwide. The Office prepared a report for discussion at the Meeting: Promoting fair globalization in textiles and clothing in a post-MFA environment (pdf, 473k). The draft timetable of the meeting and details on the panel discussions are also available online (pdf, 32k).

The Meeting drew many participants. High level representatives from 36 Governments, important delegations from the Workers' and Employers' groups and the presence of major IGOs and sectoral NGOs reflected concerns over the future of the industry, but also trust in the role of the ILO to deal with the new "rules of the game" in a socially respected manner. The Meeting marked the first time government, worker and employer representatives had gathered to discuss the phase-out of the MFA and propose measures for dealing with its impact on jobs, enterprises and the global supply chain. A summary of the main issues dealt with in the Meeting can be found in the Chairperson's Summary (pdf, 36k). The Note of the Proceedings (pdf, 271k) of the Meting is also available.

The Meeting agreed that the ILO had a leading role to play in the multilateral response to adjustments in the industry. As was noted by the Chairperson of the Meeting (Ambassador Jean Jacques Elmiger, Switzerland), "we have a small but important window of opportunity for the development and implementation of collaborative and sustainable strategies."

Recognizing this window of opportunity, the ILO was asked to provide assistance and support to promote fair globalization in textiles and clothing. The role assigned to the ILO covered a number of elements, including:

  • supporting a major drive to improve skill development for both workers and managers, and to improve employability for workers
  • providing technical assistance to developing and least developed countries to facilitate the implementation of socially responsible labour restriction programmes
  • developing a global information and analysis service that could include better and more up-to-date employment and other relevant information and details on compliance with core international labour standards
  • providing assistance in compliance and remediation to requesting exporting countries ready to ratify and implement the Conventions under the ILO Declaration
  • establishing a global social responsibility forum for dialogue between governments, employers' and workers' organizations in the producing and buying links in the TC chain, relevant international agencies and other relevant bodies
  • supporting integrated strategies in developing countries that combine the search for improved competitiveness and the promotion of decent work, and more particularly the creation of national tripartite bodies to monitor the social and economic dimensions of the post-MFA environment
  • promoting a responsible supply chain based on partnerships that balance social and commercial interests.

On this last point, the Meeting requested the ILO cooperate more actively with the IGOs concerned and the multi-stakeholder initiatives dealing the with the post-MFA environment. The Meeting particularly stressed the need for the ILO to better collaborate with the MFA Forum, a multi-stakeholder group that has been exploring ways to help countries adjust to and survive the changes and impacts of the end of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing.


Contact address for more information

Mr. Jean-Paul Sajhau,
Sectoral Activities Programme
International Labour Office,
4 route des Morillons,
CH-1211 Geneva 22, Switzerland
Tel. +41 22 799 6467; Fax. +41 22 799 7967
e-mail: sajhau@ilo.org or e-mail: sector@ilo.org

Updated by AV. Approved by JPS/JW. Last update: 6 March 2006.